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23 Blackfishing Tips: Mastering Techniques and Understanding Behaviour

23 Blackfishing Tips: Mastering Techniques and Understanding Behaviour

Blackfishing, also known as luderick fishing, rewards patience and a genuine understanding of the fish's habits more than any single piece of gear. For seasoned anglers, the thrill comes as much from reading the water and mastering the small details as it does from the catch itself. Here's why blackfish sit where they sit, and how to consistently put yourself onto them.

Why Blackfish Sit Where They Sit

Blackfish frequent particular spots for two reasons: feeding and breeding. Those locations offer reliable food and good spawning conditions, which is why they stay productive year after year. Blackfish are also territorial, defending their patch — so once you find a good area, it tends to keep producing. Spend time getting to know your spot: the rocky outcrops, weed-covered ledges and drop-offs where blackfish are likely to hold.

Getting Started

The fastest way to learn blackfishing is by going out with someone experienced. Watching a good angler teaches you the details that are hard to pick up from reading alone — the balance of observation, patience, concentration, and the right bait, whether that's weed or cabbage. Watching the float takes real vigilance; look away at the wrong moment and you'll miss the dip. Blackfish tend to sit close to the rocks where they feel safe, so the closer you can present your bait to the wall, the better your odds — though that also raises your chance of a snag.

Timing and water conditions matter too. High tide with clear water is a good time to scout for likely spots and spot snags in advance. The tail of the outgoing tide and the start of the incoming are often the most productive, since the water's murkier and fish feed more aggressively. After a big evening high tide, blackfish are often more active the following morning.

Choosing and Preparing Bait

Fresh weed or cabbage is the backbone of blackfishing. Different types work at different times, so it's worth carrying a variety. Stringy green weed, found around rocks or in saltwater pools, is reliable through the warmer months. In winter, when weed is harder to find, bubble weed — crunchier and available in colder conditions — is a good substitute.

Use only a small amount of weed or cabbage, just enough to cover the hook. With streamer-type cabbage, pinch off any long trailing pieces to about 2–3cm from the hook — the bait should be small enough for the fish to take in whole, not nibble around the edges. Fishing from breakwalls or rocks with cabbage can also draw drummer, a strong-fighting species that can snap a light trace by diving straight into the rocks.

If your float isn't dipping after several drifts, adjust the depth by moving the stopper knot up or down a hand's length, and check your bait regularly — if it looks straggly or chewed, replace it.

Choosing a Float

Three float types cover most blackfishing situations. A single attachment stick float is best in calmer water and highly sensitive to light bites. A double-eyed stick float is more versatile and stable across different conditions. An oval bobber suits rougher water, where its visibility and buoyancy make it easy to track in chop.

Adjusting your float setup matters as much as which float you use. In calm water, reduce how much of the float tip sits above the surface — close to neutral buoyancy. In rougher conditions, a more buoyant setup with extra split shot keeps things stable. If fish are shy and only nibbling, a straw extension on the float with a touch more weight, sitting just below the surface, makes even a light nibble noticeable.

Rigging

In deeper water, a running float setup works best; in shallower water, go with a fixed float. Keep the number of weights on your line to a minimum to avoid tangles when casting, and consider a small lead shot about 20cm above the hook to keep the bait directly under the float — some anglers place split shot as close as 5cm above the hook when bites are light, for more consistent hook-ups.

In sheltered spots with little to no current, such as calm jetties, blackfish can be caught without a float at all — just enough weight to sink the bait, with a small split shot or swivel above the hook, letting it drift naturally.

Use a 6lb fluorocarbon leader as a starting point, though some anglers go lighter or heavier depending on conditions. When tying on, leave a loop to thread the weed through, then twist it around the hook twice in each direction — this keeps the bait secure, with a small portion hanging below the bend to entice a bite.

Berleying

Berley is a reliable way to bring blackfish to your spot. A simple mix of chopped weed, bread and damp sand works well — use it sparingly, since overfeeding can push fish away from your hook rather than toward it. In stronger currents, a paper bag of berley tied to a string, lowered to the bottom and given a yank to release its contents, keeps fish holding near your position without drifting the berley away too fast.

Casting and Striking

Blackfishing calls for a different cast to most other styles — an underarm flick rather than an overhead cast, letting the float and sinkers carry the line out. After casting, keep the rod pointed toward the float with a little slack in the line, so that when the float dips you can set the hook cleanly without first dragging line through the water.

When the float dips or moves against the current, strike swiftly but not hard. Blackfish have small mouths, and a gentle lift of the rod is usually enough — a well-hooked fish gives immediate resistance and head shakes. Keep the rod tip high and maintain pressure so the fish can't throw the hook.

Landing and Handling Your Catch

Avoid lifting a hooked blackfish straight out of the water, especially on lighter traces — use a landing net instead. They fight hard, and thrashing on the surface with too much slack in the line can throw the hook at the last moment.

The legal size limit for blackfish is typically 27cm, though many anglers prefer to keep fish over 30cm. If you're keeping your catch, dispatch it immediately by cutting through the neck to the stomach cavity — it preserves the quality of the meat and avoids the off-flavours that come from a slow death. Keep your catch in a bucket of fresh seawater, changed regularly to maintain freshness.

Preserving Your Bait

Weed keeps best stored in small, single-use batches wrapped in newspaper and refrigerated. Cabbage should be layered between sheets of damp paper towel in a plastic container and kept in the fridge — it doesn't last as long as weed, so use it within a day or two. Leftover bait doesn't have to go to waste: chop it up and use it as berley on your next trip.

Reading Different Conditions

Blackfish turn up in everything from shallow water to depths of 5–8 metres, and your tackle should adjust with the location. In rougher water or stronger currents, use a heavier float with extra split shot for stability; in calm water, drop the float's buoyancy for greater sensitivity.

In colder months, when weed is scarce, prawns, nippers or blood worms are worth trying as an alternative — especially later in the season, when blackfish are chasing a more protein-rich diet. Night fishing can also produce well at this time, particularly with live bait — focus on areas fish move into to feed after dark, use a bright float tip for visibility, and expect the occasional bream on the line too, since they're also more active at night.

Weed itself comes in several types worth knowing — soft stringy weed, bubble weed, and wire weed among them. Wire weed is durable and holds on the hook well but can go limp after too long in the sun; soft stringy weed is easier for fish to take but needs replacing more often. It's worth carrying a mix and experimenting, since some days only one type will get bites.

Gear Worth Having

Any rod with a soft tip and a strong butt will do to start — a 10ft collapsible rod is a solid beginner's choice. As you progress, a dedicated blackfish rod (often labelled something like 'bf4144' — blackfish, 4-wrap, 144 inches) offers a flexible top section to absorb the fight and a strong butt to help lift a fish without a net.

A centrepin reel is particularly effective fishing from a boat, where tidal flow peels line off naturally. Eggbeaters cast more accurately and work well from the rocks, especially paired with braid, which gives you enough sensitivity to feel a nibble before the float even dips. Many experienced anglers run braid as their main line for its strength and floating properties — if you're using monofilament instead, greasing it with Vaseline keeps it floating; otherwise it sinks and drags on the float's movement, costing you strikes.

Safety on the Rocks

Fishing from rocks demands caution. Wear proper footwear with real grip — neoprene rock shoes with spikes — to avoid slipping on wet surfaces, and stay aware of your surroundings, especially in high swell. On ledges that can submerge at high tide, a self-inflating PFD is worth having; if you're washed in, swim away from the rocks to avoid the impact of the waves. Keep an eye on the tide and weather, and never turn your back on the sea. A bucket on a long rope makes fetching water from a dangerous ledge safer, and a shoulder strap for your gear keeps your hands free for balance.

Etiquette

Blackfishing often happens in popular, crowded spots, so basic etiquette matters. Don't crowd other anglers, and ask before joining someone at a spot. Experienced blackfish anglers can fish shoulder to shoulder without tangling, but it takes skill and awareness — if you're unsure, give others plenty of room, at least 5–10 metres. Respecting these unwritten rules keeps the experience good for everyone on the platform.

Final Thoughts

Blackfishing rewards observation as much as effort — reading the tide, matching your bait and float to conditions, and understanding how the fish actually behave. Whether you're just starting out or have been doing this for years, there's always another detail worth refining. Gather your gear, pick your spot, and get out there.

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